Georgia

Georgia 2026: Tbilisi, Batumi, Kutaisi, Akhaltsikhe

We spent more time in Georgia than in either of the other two countries that make up the Caucasus. We entered Georgia twice, once when we crossed by land from Azerbaijan near Lagokheki, and once by land from Armenia at the border near Bavra.

Crossing into Georgia and staying in Lagodekhi

We crossed into Georgia this afternoon and made our way to Lagodekhi where we will spend the night. It's a small town that was especially quiet due to the cold weather. It's popular for hiking when the weather is a little warmer. The border crossing was very easy, and getting a Bolt (rideshare like Uber) from Sheki to the border worked out well. It was only US $20 for the 100km or so journey and the driver drove like a mad man so we arrived a bit earlier than we anticipated.

Our guesthouse for the night is very rustic and cute and the owner brought us a bottle of locally made wine. When I say locally made, I don't mean it had a Georgian label, I mean it was in a recycled plastic bottle that had long since lost whatever identifying banner it may have once carried. We lost no time in sampling it and can report that it's quite nice, kind of like a crisp riesling. Lagodekhi has some very attractive buildings and there are also plenty of urbex opportunities here. 

Lagodekhi to Sighnaghi

We left Lagodekhi to make the short trip to Sighnaghi, a town built on the hills overlooking Alazani Valley. The valley is one of Georgia's best wine growing regions and the scenery is stunning. Given that we were staying over a weekend, and given that Sighnaghi is only an hour from Tbilisi, it became quite busy over the next few days. 

Exploring Sighnaghi

Today we wandered the streets of Sighnaghi. Our first stop was St Tamar the Queen Basilica. We picked up a small furry friend and participated in a little urbex along the way. The second stop was St Stephen Church where we took in the view from the top of the 18th century city wall. After that we walked the long way around to St George Basilica. All three churches were locked and it feels like the town is still not in full swing after the long winter months. 

As time went on, we saw several tour groups that must have bussed up from Tbilisi, and the majority of visitors seem to come on a day trip rather than staying overnight. This is good because it means the place is quiet in the mornings before the day trippers arrive, and in the afternoons once they have left. 

Lunch was claypot beans and lobiani, US $5.58 each, at a restaurant called Kusika. The lobiani was terrifyingly huge and we had to bring most of it back to the hotel for later. It was great to try some new local foods. We've also been sampling the local wine in the evenings and enjoying it very much.

Bodbe Monastery

After a quick breakfast we took a taxi to the Monastery of St Nino at Bodbe as we wanted to beat the tour buses. It's an incredibly beautiful site with stunning gardens and the Caucasus mountains forming the backdrop. We took the steep trail down to the holy spring in the valley. On the way we encountered a friendly dog who accompanied us on the trail. Her presence caused a ruckus with the dogs that live in the clearing around the holy spring, and the woman who is the caretaker of the place yelled at us and/or the dog we inadvertently brought with us. 

We had a bit of a look around, took some photos, and commenced walking from the parking area towards the road as we didn't want to go back up the trail. Next thing we knew a police car sped past us heading towards the spring car park, stopped a few seconds there, then came back in our direction and pulled over next to us. The officers wanted to know where we were from, how we had arrived at the spring, and where we were staying. They also wanted to see our passports. We only had photos on our phones but they were happy with that.

Arriving in Tbilisi

We arrived in Tbilisi and checked into the little apartment that was to be our home for the next week. It was good to have time and space to get some admin stuff done. Glad to have reached the capital and looking forward to a different experience!

I went for my first run of the trip and didn't freeze, get hit by a car, or get lost, so I'd call that a win. How nice it was to run beside the river with fresh legs and the sun on my face. The temperature was only 11 degrees but it didn't feel that cold. Later we went for a walk around Dezerter Bazaar and the area near Tbilisi Central Railway Station  There's so much going on and heaps to see. 

Marjanishvili

The weather was a bit ordinary today but it cleared a little in the late afternoon so we went for a walk. Our walk took us south to the buzzing streets around Marjanishvili metro station. It's a great area with heaps of restaurants and shops. Even so, we decided to eat at home and picked up a BBQ chook for 15 GEL and a huge crusty bread straight from the oven for 1 GEL; total dinner cost was US $5.96. It really hit the spot and we both enjoyed a break from eating out and ordering in as we have been doing most nights.

Old Tbilisi

The weather was perfect so we made the most of it by walking around the old part of Tbilisi. We started at the sulfur baths, wandered a bit, then visited the waterfall. There was nothing for it but to have a beer overlooking the beautiful buildings before enjoying a nice lunch of roast pork and potatoes at Khinkali Bar. After that we went to a large Catholic iconography shop to see the huge range of benediction incense burners, a multitude of holy pictures, cases of religious jewellery, and everything else you could think of that a good Catholic might want to own. Next stop was the gondola ride to see the Mother of Georgia statue up close. All in all a very pleasant afternoon out and about in Tbilisi.

Train tickets

There were a few jobs to get done including procurement of train tickets for onward travel to Batumi on Sunday. They were already nearly sold out and we weren't able to sit together, but the upside is that we both had window seats. We also bought tickets for the train from Tbilisi to Yerevan in Armenia, so the next piece of the puzzle was to plan the days between those two train journeys. The first trip was about five hours, departing at 8am, and the second was 10 hours, departing at 8.20pm. 

After our visit to Tbilisi Central we wandered a little more around the winding streets of the old part of town. Some of the buildings are so crumbly that it looks as if they are beyond repair. We noted two distinct approaches to this situation. The first is to fight the deterioration with everything you've got, no matter that it's likely futile. The second is to peacefully accept the slow decay and let the building gently fall apart while you and your cats enjoy the view from your crooked balcony.

Holy Trinity Cathedral

Rain was forecast but in the end only a few drops fell, and the aimless wandering continued without curtailment. I walked about 4km to the Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi then meandered my way back via a different route, taking in as much as I could along the way. I saw countless quirky shops, narrow, winding alleys, cobbled streets, and even a bar located in an underpass. 

This city has plenty to see and I enjoyed having a destination but not a planned route. I think this combination provides the best of both worlds, offering the focus provided by having a fixed end point, but also the flexibility to take whichever road looks most appealing to get there.

Tabor monastery, Ateshgah Zoroastrian Temple, Dry Bridge Market

As today was our last day in Tbilisi for now, and because the weather was amazing, we decided to tick off a few more sights that were on our list. 

First up was the Tabor Monastery of the Transfiguration. It takes some effort to get there, first up a very steep street then up a newly constructed spiral staircase, followed by many more stairs. The view from the top is gorgeous but it could only be admired from exposed points for a few moments at a time due to the strong wind. The recently completed infrastructure means access to the monastery by foot from the river side is excellent. There is seating along the way, strategically positioned to take best advantage of the view. 

Our second stop was the Ateshgah Zoroastrian Temple, and I wanted to see it because we skipped the fire temple in Azerbaijan. Unfortunately the door was closed so we couldn't go inside, but having seen the interior on Google Maps, I don't think there's too much to see anyway. There were some stunning views from the temple area as well, and plenty more narrow, winding cobblestone streets, making it a photogenic detour. How cars get so far up those streets is a mystery to me.

Last on the list was to check out the Dry Bridge Flea Market. There's a lot of fun stuff on offer whether you're looking for brass peacocks and candelabras, brightly coloured paintings, Soviet era memorabilia, or touristy crafts. It had a nice atmosphere, probably due to the afternoon being so perfect with blue skies and warmer weather.

Taking the train to Batumi

Hello Black Sea! Most of our day was spent on the train from Tbilisi to Batumi. It's a very smooth and comfortable service but the positioning of our seats made it difficult to enjoy the views - this probably explains why these seats hadn’t been taken. What we were able to see was spectacular.

Batumi is only 360km from Tbilisi, but it has a feel all of its own and the weather seems to be a bit more mild. No cats so far but we saw kennels for street dogs that had lacy privacy curtains. What a sweet touch. 

We are excited to step on the beach of the Black Sea today. It's the most western point of our trip, with the Caspian Sea at Baku being the furthest east.

Black Sea

My day began with a run beside the Black Sea, something I have wanted to do since we decided to visit Batumi. That out of the way, we enjoyed a late lunch at a restaurant called Heart of Batumi. The food was delicious and cost only US $22 including drinks. The restaurant is colourful and quirky, achieving the perfect balance in atmosphere - not so casual that it feels like a cafeteria where you want to eat and go as quickly as possible, and not so stiff and formal that it feels too extravagant for a Monday lunch. The staff were friendly and attentive, making the whole experience enjoyable. After lunch we wandered around a bit, seeing some of the modern architecture for which Batumi is so well known. I still can't believe there's a sky scraper with a ferris wheel built into one side. 

The next day we continued our exploration of Batumi visiting several churches and the famous Batumi Octopus.

Batumi to Kutaisi

I was up before the sun for our last morning in Batumi, and we were on the bus to Kutaisi, 150km away, at midday. First thoughts of Kutaisi? I name it Tiny Tbilisi. It feels immediately more manageable than Tbilisi in terms of size but shares at least some of the capital’s charm. Further exploration is needed, but by this point we already liked it. It's always a positive sign when your first meal in a place is a good one, and we enjoyed a delicious lunch at Baraqa. Very nice khinkali!

Exploring Kutaisi

We started today with a meal at Bikentia's Kebabery. The food comes as a set with meat in a spicy tomato sauce, bread, and a drink. We chose beer but you can have lemonade if you prefer. There are ledges along each side of the wall where you stand to eat, and it gets busy in there. The total for two serves of this quick and tasty lunch was US $9.32. 

With fuel on board we set out on an extended walk to see some of the sights. Well, there are sights aplenty, and Kutaisi laid on the charm. We walked and walked, each site more beautiful than the last. After reaching the furthest point of our walk, we took a more direct route back towards our accommodation. On the way, the sun began to drop in the sky and the shadows began to stretch, bathing everything in that magical late afternoon light. 

At precisely the moment when the afternoon reached its peak beauty, we rounded a corner and saw a tiny shop selling beer they brew themselves on site. There was nothing for it but to stop and enjoy a glass of delicious cold, bubbly beer. They decant it from the keg into a one litre plastic bottle and from there, into 500ml glasses. The bottle was 10 Lari or US $3.70.

Tskaltubo

I had been looking forward to visiting Tskaltubo since we began planning our trip to Georgia. This small town just a few kilometres from Kutaisi was popular in the Soviet era and was home to numerous sanatoria. These sanatoria were essentially large hotels that housed visitors while they undertook courses of medicinal bath treatments (balneotherapy) in the nearby bathhouses fed by the thermal mineral springs. I suppose it was the medical tourism of the day. 

The sanatoria eventually fell into disuse and in the ensuing decades, the buildings began to decay. In recent years many have been earmarked for refurbishment and are no longer available to the public for exploration, but there are still plenty that you can visit. We were accompanied by a tag team of local guides of the four legged variety, and their constant carousing made our visits a little less sombre than they might have otherwise been.

Day of Kutaisi festival

We were fortunate to witness the Day of Kutaisi festival today. Also known as the Day of Daisies, it celebrates the tradition of daisy-selling, originating from the 1920s when high school girls picked and sold daisies to help people suffering from tuberculosis. There were loads of people out and everyone was in high spirits even though it was threatening to rain.

Kutaisi to Tbilisi 

I woke up thinking that I'd have time to get a run in before our bus to Tbilisi was due to depart at midday. I then realised a better plan would be to use that time to see a few final sights in Kutaisi. So I visited Bagrati Cathedral and the ruins of the palace of the kings beside it. There were a few people around but it was mostly quiet, and I took the opportunity to make this video. As I was on my way out, a big bus pulled in, and I watched as it disgorged maybe 50 tourists who proceeded to trudge up the hill towards the cathedral. My timing was very fortunate.

Our bus left on time which was lucky as it had come from somewhere else prior to arriving in Kutaisi. On arrival in Tbilisi we decided to spend a few hours at Fabrika while we waited until it was time to go to the train station. Fabrika is a large complex featuring a hostel, restaurants, a cafe, co-working and retail spaces housed in a repurposed sewing factory. I was wondering where all the travelers were, and I think we found them here!

We took the overnight train later on and crossed into Armenia where we stayed for a week. We re-entered Georgia near Vardzia where this account continues.

Vardzia and arriving in Akhaltsikhe

We left Gyumri in Armenia at 8am which might as well be 4am seeing as people get up very late in the Caucasus. We were across the border and back into Georgia by 9am, and the scenery along the way was staggering - the kind of big views that make you feel insignificant. We passed through many tiny villages, the best of which inspired daydreams of a peaceful life in a remote stone cottage, the worst of which were reminiscent of Richard Flanagan's The Sound of One Hand Clapping; a grim existence in a harsh environment. 

Our main stop along the way to Akhaltsikhe was Vardzia although we did see a couple of castles as well. Vardzia dates back to the 12th century and is an ancient city consisting of hundreds of caves that were carved into the side of a mountain. It's a breathtaking sight and one of those places that makes you feel fortunate to be alive. Sounds dramatic but it's true. The valley itself is also beautiful with a river running through and lush green vegetation as far as the eye can see.

From Vardzia it was only an hour into the small town of  Akhaltsikhe.

Akhaltsikhe

Our aim today was low-key and mainly consisted of acquainting ourselves with Akhaltsikhe since we are here for four more nights. We wandered the streets, visited some churches, patted some cats and changed some money. 

Besides Akhaltsikhe (Rabati) Castle, there are lots of places of interest a little outside of Akhaltsikhe itself. We went to the bus station to get some information about the local bus routes to see if they would help us with our exploration of the area. Still not sure about that, but we were surprised to find that there is quite a large bus network and many of the vehicles are proper buses, not marshrutka-style vans. We also noticed electronic sign boards with upcoming bus departures and times. Really impressive for a city of around 17,500 people.

Bronze Age ruins in Saro

In April 2026, an article was published in the journal Antiquity sharing findings of a study undertaken over the past eight years in the Samtskhe–Javakheti region. The study discusses 168 previously undocumented ancient sites and explains how the discoveries challenge previously held ideas about these ancient civilizations. Through analysis of the sites, much more is now known about the way these societies operated and how the people lived. We’re talking Bronze Age, or around 3,500 BCE. Read more about the recent discoveries.

Do you know what’s incredible? There are extensive ruins of this era just 45km from Akhaltsikhe in a village called Saro on top of a mountain. You can visit and just wander amongst the ruins. Many of the village houses have ruins in their backyard. It's astounding. The only way to get there is with private transport, so we asked our accommodation to help us organise a car and driver. The round trip was just US $30 for this once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Sapara Monastery

It was raining this morning but luckily it cleared for long enough that we could make the 10km journey from Akhaltsikhe town to Sapara Monastery. We found a driver on Yandex (like Uber) to take us there for 10 Lari or US $3.70 and bring us back to town again after our visit. 

The monastery is at the end of a long, winding road that snakes up the mountainside, and I have to say it is breathtaking. It was cold, a few drops of rain were falling, and a couple of black-cloaked monks were quietly taking care of the grounds, all adding to the wonderful atmosphere of the place. Just when I thought it couldn't get any better, I entered the main church building and stood there in awe of the beauty in front of me. Photography isn't allowed inside and I am glad about that. There's no way a photo could capture the feeling of standing there in that moment. It's a really special place.

Our next stop was the region’s big ticket item, Akhaltsikhe (Rabati) Castle. It's huge and it takes a long time to see everything. We wandered around the portion that’s free to enter as it was threatening rain. 

Akhaltsikhe (Rabati) Castle

Today turned out a little differently to what we expected. I had wanted to visit a cluster of sights to the south east of town around Uraveli including a church yard that is home to the Enteli Stoneman. Sadly he remains a lonely figure as the route to see him is accessible only by 4WD and some of the other sites also included a long and possibly sketchy hike. Not the easy afternoon of driving from site to site that I had imagined.

Instead, we went to a church at the top of a hill and wandered our way back down to Akhaltsikhe (Rabati) Castle via the Turkish Baths. The baths were locked but there was a bit of a gap between the door and the jamb because the chain had a bit of slack in it. It wasn't enough of a gap for me to get inside, but it was enough for my phone to enter and have a look around. After that, we paid for our tickets and visited the castle to finish the exploration we began yesterday.

I've read plenty of reports and seen plenty of videos saying the castle lacks character and that its restoration is too perfect, too clean, and too clinical. I think there are enough old sites that haven't been restored that you can get your fix of rustic and rundown in those places. It's nice to see a massive complex like Rabati in all its splendour sitting on the hillside as a backdrop for the town. I thought it was beautiful and we were fortunate to have much of it to ourselves while we were there.

One of the lovely features of the extensive gardens is a fountain under a wooden gazebo that is so reminiscent of Queenslander architecture that it felt quite familiar to us. I didn't expect to find that in the deep south of Georgia!

Back to Tbilisi

We left Akhaltsikhe late in the morning and took a marshrutka to Tbilisi. We had two nights left before our flight back to Baku in Azerbaijan. We passed through Bojormi and it looked like a very cute town. I’ve penciled it in for our next visit to Georgia.

We stayed in a slightly more fancy (expensive) place in Tbilisi the second time as our impression of the capital wasn't amazing when we first visited earlier in this trip. This time we stayed in the heart of the tourist area (old city), and our experience was much better. It's a lot prettier with many more cafes, restaurants and bars. 

Nature and waterfalls in Tbilisi

One of the benefits of staying in the older part of Tbilisi is that you can walk for a few minutes and be in the middle of a massive green space that feels like a national park. I visited Ascension Church then followed the road behind until I found a staircase rising steeply against the curve of the hillside. Little did I know that the steps would go on and on, and at the end there wasn’t really any option other than returning the same way. I passed a couple of waterfalls and enjoyed some fantastic views over the city on the way back down. Near the end of the walk I was able to pop into a great urbex site that sits in a tight bend of the road. Since I was by myself, I didn’t venture too far inside, but I could see that the upper section had some great winding staircases and odd shaped voids that would have made for great photos. 

We had a fantastic time exploring Georgia and look forward to returning, perhaps to visit some of the more remote hiking destinations.