Armenia

Armenia 2026: Yerevan & Gyumri

Our first trip to Armenia in early May 2026 was part of a two month journey where we also visited Azerbaijan, Georgia and India. We stayed in Armenia for just seven days and would love to return to see more.

Arriving in Yerevan

We arrived in Yerevan, Armenia just before 7am on the overnight train from Tbilisi. It wasn't just us who arrived - 50 world leaders also arrived to participate in the European Political Community summit that was to be held over the next three days. There was an enormous police presence, and I was glad we were staying in Kond which is a little outside the city centre. This location positioned us very well for a walk through the Kond Pedestrian Tunnel which is 500 meters long. 

When we popped out on the other side, we were close to the Children's Railway which is a scale model of a full railway complete with a few kilometres of tiny track, a station building and tunnels. It was built in 1943 as an educational facility to teach children about the operation of railways and to inspire them to pursue careers in engineering and related professions. Hrazdan Gorge, where the railway is located, is a lovely green space that is well used by locals. Our walk took us past the aqueduct and ended at the stunning St. Sargis Vicarial Church.

Yerevan Cascade Complex

It's rare for a place viewed in so many videos and photos to exceed expectations, but Yerevan's Cascade Complex certainly did. You can go up via the stairs outside or take an escalator inside the structure and enjoy a modern art gallery with pieces situated on each level as you ascend. I was surprised to see a few Calders and other big name artists. 

Outside, each level has a different theme with accompanying sculptural and relief elements. There is a big Metropolis (1920's film) vibe that forms the backdrop for both present day selfie culture and young couples falling in love. 

The sky cleared as we reached the top and we had a decent view of Mount Ararat, the mythical resting place of Noah's Ark. As I gazed at its snow-capped peak, I wondered how the snakes and lizards of the world got on without any sun to warm their cold blood, not to mention the poor kitties with nothing but snow under paw and not a warm lap in sight.

History of the Cascade

Construction of the Cascade began in 1980 but was suspended due to the earthquake and fall of the Soviet Union. In 2002, the government decided to reconstruct the parts that had been damaged and complete the unfinished sections. In 2024 a decision was made to work on the one remaining incomplete section with final completion expected around 2030. By then, construction will have taken a total of 50 years.

Kond

On our outings today we visited historic Kond, a very old part of Yerevan that is constructed on a hill close to the centre of town. Access to the area is by steep stairs from street level at various points around the bottom of the hill. There is a lot of work being done to upgrade the water supply to the area and many of the winding alleys had a strip down the middle that had been excavated to make way for the new pipes. Some of the buildings look like they wouldn't survive a stiff breeze, so it's surprising (in a good way) that so much effort is going into improving services for the residents. 

Later we visited the Armenian Genocide Complex. Along with the memorial there is a museum containing an incredibly well-curated and staged exhibition. It left me wondering how human beings could even conceive the means of torture that were used against the Armenian people. It's dark and it's hard work but we felt it was an essential part of our visit to Yerevan.

Yerevan to Gyumri

In the afternoon, we travelled from Yerevan to Gyumri, a journey of 120km if you take the new highway. Our mashrutka (minivan) took us via a slightly longer route that passed by many beautiful villages with huge mountains that seemed to rise right in their backyards. At one point in the journey there was snow very close to the road and we even had a bit of sleet on the windscreen.

Our accommodation was a little apartment just a short walk from Gyumri’s centre and there was a local store across the road. The apartment is in an old soviet building but it has been refurbished to a very comfortable standard. Gyumri has a very attractive city centre with some beautiful buildings and we are looking forward to exploring more.

Gyumri

We had a late start as unfortunately life admin doesn't stop just because you're travelling in the Caucasus. I also went for a run at 1pm when the temperature in Gyumri reached its maximum of 12 degrees. It was colder in Gyumri than it was in Yerevan, and a bit higher altitude as well, something I learned the hard way during my run.

We had a late lunch/early dinner in a great tavern style restaurant and after that, went for a walk to see a bit of the city. Evidence of the 1988 earthquake isn't ever far from sight. Although the buildings that line the main streets have been reconstructed and look beautiful, things fall away quickly just one block further back. People seem to be doing it pretty tough in Gyumri. That said, I liked the feel of this place and I am glad we chose to stay three nights. Oh, I almost forgot to mention that we found a children's ride featuring boxing kangaroos! Unexpected!

Central Park

Today was our last full day in Gyumri and also Armenia. We spent the day getting more acquainted with the city and seeing a few more of the sights. We visited Central Park, a large green space that also includes a group of old and rusty, but still operational, sideshow rides. Jeremy made me go on the ferris wheel and as our gondola creaked and groaned its painfully slow way to the top of the revolution, I conquered my fear long enough to take a very quick look at the outstanding view behind me. It was a clear day and the mountains were visible in all their glory.

Near the park there is a beautiful building that appeared in a film called “Tango of My Childhood” and although it is currently undergoing much needed restoration, it is still visited by locals. The film is a love story and a little cottage industry has sprung up across the road where couples buy tiny ceramic alphabet tiles to spell out their names. They paint these tiles in different colours then stick them into the outer wall of the building. It’s super cute.

We also visited Abovyan Walking Street and Gyumri's main market. Both are very picturesque in their own way. We had intended to visit some museums but after a late lunch we opted for a nice lie down in our lovely apartment instead. After nearly six weeks on the road and some questionable bathrooms, showering in the apartment has been a highlight of our time in Gyumri. A piping hot shower in a beautiful bathroom with a heated towel rail, sub-floor heating and fluffy towels is pure luxury in a cold climate and I won't hear anyone say otherwise.

Crossing into Georgia at Bavra

What a day! We left Gyumri at 8am which might as well have been 4am seeing as people get up very late in the Caucasus. We were across the border and back into Georgia by 9am, and the scenery along the way was staggering - the kind of big views that make you feel insignificant. We passed through many tiny villages, the best of which inspired daydreams of a peaceful life in a remote stone cottage, the worst of which were reminiscent of Richard Flanagan's The Sound of One Hand Clapping; a grim existence in a harsh environment. Either way, there's definitely a vibe in these places.